In many ways,
the work of a critic is easy
We risk very little,
yet enjoy a position over those
who offer up their work
and their selves to our judgement.
We thrive on negative criticism,
which is fun to write and to read.
But the bitter truth we critics must face
is that in the grand scheme of things
the average piece of junk
is probably more meaningful
than our criticism designating it so.
But there are times
when a critic truly risks something
and that is in the discovery
and defence of the new.
The world is often unkind
to new talent, new creations.
The new needs friends.
Last night,
I experienced something new,
an extraordinary meal
from a singularly unexpected source.
To say that both the meal and its maker
have challenged my preconceptions
about fine cooking
is a gross understatement.
They have rocked me to my core.
In the past, I have made no secret
of my disdain
for Chef Gusteau's famous motto
"Anyone can cook".
But I realise only now
do I truly understand what he meant.
Not everyone
can become a great artist,
but a great artist
can come from anywhere.
It is difficult to imagine
more humble origins
than those of the genius
now cooking at Gusteau's,
who is, in this critic's opinion,
nothing less than the finest chef in France.
I will be returning to Gisteau's soon,
hungry for more.- Anton Ego (Ratatouille movie)
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